Seriously, can we cure cancer instead of wasting money on stupid studies like this.
Read the article.
12.10.2009
Too Many Chihuahuas
California shelters have more Chihuahuas than they can handle, and it has Hollywood to blame.Chihuahuas are the most popular breed of dog in Los Angeles, so it makes sense it is the most abandoned breed, said Madeline Bernstein, president of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Los Angeles. In Oakland, some days, they get 10 of the 5-pound dogs a day, Webb said.
Chihuahuas make up 30 percent or more of the dog populations at many California shelters. And experts say pop culture is to blame, with fans immitating Chihuahua-toting celebrities like Paris Hilton and Miley Cyrus, then abandoning the dogs.
Full Article
11.30.2009
Dog Overweight?
Obesity is the number one problem facing pets in the United States, 40% are dangerously overweight. Just like humans, overweight pets face many health problems including diabetes, heart disease, cancer, arthritis and shortened life.
There is a simple way to tell if your pet is overweight, if you can easily feel their ribs most likely they are in a healthy weight range. If not, it's time to pay attention to your dog's food intake and exercise.
As your dog ages, his calorie needs go down so you need to adjust their food levels accordingly. (Keep in mind that older dogs need more protein.) Also, dogs who get less exercise have less calorie needs than dogs who gets lots of exercise. One way to determine how much to feed your dog is to read the suggested feeding requirements on your dog's food package. However, the amounts listed by the manufacturer are generally much too high and they are not adjusted for treats. Most dogs should be fed at the lowest end of the range, some require even less, and if you supplement with treats you need to lower the amount of food you feed. Speaking of treats, NO TABLE SCRAPS. This is where dogs get into trouble. If you want to give them some of the food you are eating, consider a bite of unseasoned meat, carrot, zucchini, brussels sprouts, etc....(see the ASPCA list of People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets.) These types of treats are the healthiest and lowest calorie treats you can give your dog. But consider every bite you feed your dog and adjust the amount of food accordingly.
As far as prescription drugs to help your pooch trim down, are you kidding me? That is the most ridiculous thing I have every heard. Monitor their diet, take them for long walks and in a very short amount of time you will see results.
There is a simple way to tell if your pet is overweight, if you can easily feel their ribs most likely they are in a healthy weight range. If not, it's time to pay attention to your dog's food intake and exercise.
As your dog ages, his calorie needs go down so you need to adjust their food levels accordingly. (Keep in mind that older dogs need more protein.) Also, dogs who get less exercise have less calorie needs than dogs who gets lots of exercise. One way to determine how much to feed your dog is to read the suggested feeding requirements on your dog's food package. However, the amounts listed by the manufacturer are generally much too high and they are not adjusted for treats. Most dogs should be fed at the lowest end of the range, some require even less, and if you supplement with treats you need to lower the amount of food you feed. Speaking of treats, NO TABLE SCRAPS. This is where dogs get into trouble. If you want to give them some of the food you are eating, consider a bite of unseasoned meat, carrot, zucchini, brussels sprouts, etc....(see the ASPCA list of People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets.) These types of treats are the healthiest and lowest calorie treats you can give your dog. But consider every bite you feed your dog and adjust the amount of food accordingly.
As far as prescription drugs to help your pooch trim down, are you kidding me? That is the most ridiculous thing I have every heard. Monitor their diet, take them for long walks and in a very short amount of time you will see results.
10.15.2009
Crate Training
Many people think crate training their dog is mean and cruel, but it’s really not. I used crate training for Bailey to help housebreak him and, at the time, I hated it because I felt terrible locking him up. I didn’t know that dogs can actually view a cage as a soothing and comfortable place of their own where they can sleep and lounge undisturbed. In fact, crate training is a great way to housebreak a new dog and get him used to living in your home. A crate is also the safest place for your dog to be when you are not home to monitor them. You will always have peace of mind when you are not home knowing that your pooch can’t get into the baking chocolate you left on the counter or tear up your brand new shoes if they are in a crate. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when cage training your puppy or dog.
Size it up. Choose a crate big enough for your pooch to stand up and turn around comfortably, but not so spacious that he can easily keep his distance from any messes he may make inside it.
Ease into the intro. Place a few favorite toys inside the crate to make it more inviting. Coax your pooch inside, you may want to put a few treats inside to start them off thinking the crate is a great place, and let him sniff out this new space. Keep doing this until you find him going in the crate on his own. Once he seems comfortable, try closing the door. If he objects, let him out and reassure him. But if he doesn't seem to mind, pour on the praise. Gradually work up to leaving your pup in the crate for longer stretches of time as he grows more accustomed to it.
Stay positive. If your pooch has an accident in the crate, skip the scolding. Being confined in a small space with a stinky mess is punishment enough. Instead, take him outside and remind him of where he is supposed to go.
Trick it out. A soft crate pad would definitely make the crate more interesting and comfortable for your dog. And it’s a good idea to purchase a water bowl that will screw on to the side because you never want to leave your pup without water. Since a metal cage is really not too attractive, you can coordinate the crate to your room with different colors and fabric covers. I’ve even seen wooden furniture-like crates and custom designed crates so your pooch’s pad is as stylish as yours.
One last thing, it’s a good idea not to use being in the crate as a punishment and keep the entire crate experience positive or your dog will start to associate his crate as going to jail and no one likes that.
Size it up. Choose a crate big enough for your pooch to stand up and turn around comfortably, but not so spacious that he can easily keep his distance from any messes he may make inside it.
Ease into the intro. Place a few favorite toys inside the crate to make it more inviting. Coax your pooch inside, you may want to put a few treats inside to start them off thinking the crate is a great place, and let him sniff out this new space. Keep doing this until you find him going in the crate on his own. Once he seems comfortable, try closing the door. If he objects, let him out and reassure him. But if he doesn't seem to mind, pour on the praise. Gradually work up to leaving your pup in the crate for longer stretches of time as he grows more accustomed to it.
Stay positive. If your pooch has an accident in the crate, skip the scolding. Being confined in a small space with a stinky mess is punishment enough. Instead, take him outside and remind him of where he is supposed to go.
Trick it out. A soft crate pad would definitely make the crate more interesting and comfortable for your dog. And it’s a good idea to purchase a water bowl that will screw on to the side because you never want to leave your pup without water. Since a metal cage is really not too attractive, you can coordinate the crate to your room with different colors and fabric covers. I’ve even seen wooden furniture-like crates and custom designed crates so your pooch’s pad is as stylish as yours.
One last thing, it’s a good idea not to use being in the crate as a punishment and keep the entire crate experience positive or your dog will start to associate his crate as going to jail and no one likes that.
10.11.2009
Dogs vs. Porqupine
Unfortunately the porqupine won. And from what I've read, the porqupine always wins.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.
Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
9.28.2009
Best Dog Beds EVER!
You have to check out Bowser's, they are simply the best dog beds I have found.
Bailey currently owns three of the donut beds, (there may be a fourth in his near future), and just adores them. Plus, they are stylish and easy to clean. If you knew me at all, you would know that these two points are key to my mental well being.
Bowser's has many styles and sizes to accomodate all breeds, super tiny to giant, and keeps right on trend with new fabrics and styles.
Since I found Bowser's products about, eight years ago, they have expanded their product line, in addition to the several styles of dogs beds, the now have furniture, collars, leashes, feeders, steps, travel accessories, mats, cushions and for the super coordinated....fabric by the yard.
If you go with a microvelvet fabric you will not be disappointed!
Note, you are going to spend more on a Bowser's Bed then you would at the mass merchants but a Bowser's Bed will last a lot longer and provide much more comfort and support for your dog. All three of Bailey's beds still look brand new.
Bailey currently owns three of the donut beds, (there may be a fourth in his near future), and just adores them. Plus, they are stylish and easy to clean. If you knew me at all, you would know that these two points are key to my mental well being.Bowser's has many styles and sizes to accomodate all breeds, super tiny to giant, and keeps right on trend with new fabrics and styles.Since I found Bowser's products about, eight years ago, they have expanded their product line, in addition to the several styles of dogs beds, the now have furniture, collars, leashes, feeders, steps, travel accessories, mats, cushions and for the super coordinated....fabric by the yard. If you go with a microvelvet fabric you will not be disappointed!Note, you are going to spend more on a Bowser's Bed then you would at the mass merchants but a Bowser's Bed will last a lot longer and provide much more comfort and support for your dog. All three of Bailey's beds still look brand new.
8.15.2009
Is Your Vet Still Overvaccinating Your Dog?
I came across this enlightening article and am reprinting it with permission from the author, Dr. Dan Beatty. Please read this article, research vaccinations and have an informed discussion with your Vet.
Is your dog being overvaccinated and is your vet following the new guidelines? How many of you are still getting annual “shots” for your dog? Has your vet told you that there is a “new” protocol for vaccinating your dog? I say “new” loosely because the guidelines have been around for over 5 years now! That is beside the point, lets just go with the new guidelines given out by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) last year in 2006.
First, a bit of information about the vaccination of your dog. The most common other vaccination given to your dog besides rabies is a 5 or a 6 in one shot. Meaning there are 5 or 6 different types of diseases your dog is being vaccinated for in one shot. The common acronym for this vaccine is DHLPP and sometimes added in there is a C. The letters each stand for a different disease – D=Distemper, H=Hepatitis (also known as Adenovirus), L=Leptospirosis, P=Parvo, P=Parainfluenza, and C=Corona.
For the new guidelines lets take the three core vaccines, the three that your dog should be vaccinated for Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis (Adenovirus). After your dog has been initially vaccinated for these three core diseases usually as a puppy and then a year later with a booster, your dog has prolonged immunity against those diseases. What do I mean by prolonged immunity, well the research shows, your dog is immune for 6 to 9 years! That’s correct! The research done by reputable immunologists, such as Dr. Ronald Schultz, shows that after the initial puppy vaccination and a one year booster many dogs are protected for the majority of their life. WIth this new research AAHA developed some new guidelines. Their suggestion or guidelines, after puppy vaccination and the yearly booster is that the three core vaccines, only need to be boostered every three years. So according to the AAHA guidelines, instead of annual revaccination, your dog really only needs to be revaccinated every three years.
In fact, did you know, annual vaccination of your dog can cause severe diseases. Overvaccination has been linked to cancer, allergies, and other auto-immune diseases such as Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia. More research needs to be done but many of the recent studies show these links exist. In fact, in cats, overvaccination has been proven to cause sarcomas, a very severe cancer.
So now the question becomes, if the vaccines have been shown to produce immunity that lasts quite a bit longer than what was originally thought and annual vaccination might be the cause of certain allergies and other immune system diseases including cancer, then why has my vet not told me about this? Unfortunately, the answer is money, if not money then it is pure ignorance on your vet’s part. Yes ignorance, as in not current in their education or just an unwillingness to change because the old way is the way things have always been done. Money is the other answer and no it is not because veterinarians are greedy, but rather in many veterinary offices, 33% of the annual income comes from vaccinations. This is a large percentage of income that with the new guidelines will be cut. Veterinarians are not prepared for that kind of an income cut. Many could go out of business. Many clinics do not have the management skills or their other services are not priced correctly to compensate for that kind of an income loss. So changing to the new vaccination guidelines although would benefit your animals health can be a tough business decision for the owner of the veterinary clinic. Just remember though you have a responsibility as a pet owner for the health and well being of your pet and less vaccinations IS better for your pet, regardless of the business problems that some clinics may have going to the new guidelines.
So if your veterinarian is still requesting annual vaccinations, ask why. Be informed, make the right decisions, choose to protect the health of your dog by learning what your veterinarian is giving to your dog and why – specifically why, not just because he is the vet and it is to better the health of your dog. Ask questions, be dangerous!
About the Author
Be dangerous to your veterinarian, be informed, make intelligent decisions based on knowledge from credible sources. You can find more information about the topic of dog health care at Dr. Dan's website - e-Vet Clinic and his blog Dog Health Care.
Is your dog being overvaccinated and is your vet following the new guidelines? How many of you are still getting annual “shots” for your dog? Has your vet told you that there is a “new” protocol for vaccinating your dog? I say “new” loosely because the guidelines have been around for over 5 years now! That is beside the point, lets just go with the new guidelines given out by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) last year in 2006.
First, a bit of information about the vaccination of your dog. The most common other vaccination given to your dog besides rabies is a 5 or a 6 in one shot. Meaning there are 5 or 6 different types of diseases your dog is being vaccinated for in one shot. The common acronym for this vaccine is DHLPP and sometimes added in there is a C. The letters each stand for a different disease – D=Distemper, H=Hepatitis (also known as Adenovirus), L=Leptospirosis, P=Parvo, P=Parainfluenza, and C=Corona.
For the new guidelines lets take the three core vaccines, the three that your dog should be vaccinated for Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis (Adenovirus). After your dog has been initially vaccinated for these three core diseases usually as a puppy and then a year later with a booster, your dog has prolonged immunity against those diseases. What do I mean by prolonged immunity, well the research shows, your dog is immune for 6 to 9 years! That’s correct! The research done by reputable immunologists, such as Dr. Ronald Schultz, shows that after the initial puppy vaccination and a one year booster many dogs are protected for the majority of their life. WIth this new research AAHA developed some new guidelines. Their suggestion or guidelines, after puppy vaccination and the yearly booster is that the three core vaccines, only need to be boostered every three years. So according to the AAHA guidelines, instead of annual revaccination, your dog really only needs to be revaccinated every three years.
In fact, did you know, annual vaccination of your dog can cause severe diseases. Overvaccination has been linked to cancer, allergies, and other auto-immune diseases such as Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia. More research needs to be done but many of the recent studies show these links exist. In fact, in cats, overvaccination has been proven to cause sarcomas, a very severe cancer.
So now the question becomes, if the vaccines have been shown to produce immunity that lasts quite a bit longer than what was originally thought and annual vaccination might be the cause of certain allergies and other immune system diseases including cancer, then why has my vet not told me about this? Unfortunately, the answer is money, if not money then it is pure ignorance on your vet’s part. Yes ignorance, as in not current in their education or just an unwillingness to change because the old way is the way things have always been done. Money is the other answer and no it is not because veterinarians are greedy, but rather in many veterinary offices, 33% of the annual income comes from vaccinations. This is a large percentage of income that with the new guidelines will be cut. Veterinarians are not prepared for that kind of an income cut. Many could go out of business. Many clinics do not have the management skills or their other services are not priced correctly to compensate for that kind of an income loss. So changing to the new vaccination guidelines although would benefit your animals health can be a tough business decision for the owner of the veterinary clinic. Just remember though you have a responsibility as a pet owner for the health and well being of your pet and less vaccinations IS better for your pet, regardless of the business problems that some clinics may have going to the new guidelines.
So if your veterinarian is still requesting annual vaccinations, ask why. Be informed, make the right decisions, choose to protect the health of your dog by learning what your veterinarian is giving to your dog and why – specifically why, not just because he is the vet and it is to better the health of your dog. Ask questions, be dangerous!
About the Author
Be dangerous to your veterinarian, be informed, make intelligent decisions based on knowledge from credible sources. You can find more information about the topic of dog health care at Dr. Dan's website - e-Vet Clinic and his blog Dog Health Care.
8.14.2009
Eagles Hire ConVick
I'm raging mad that the Philadelphia Eagles hired Michael Vick right out of prison.
Honestly, the NFL shouldn't have even considered hiring Vick until he had completed his parol requirements and been an animal advocate against dog fighting and animal abuse for a considerable amount of time, beyond what was required by his plea agreement. Then perhaps a second chance would have been easier to swallow. Right now the wounds are just too fresh and the remorse seems too contrived.
What is very disturbing is the message it sends to the kids that idolize him. They need to see that dogfighters never succeed, they are criminals, and there’s no good outcome if you get involved. However, in my eyes, Vick's outcome is good so at best it's a clouded message that he is advocating against dog fighting while at the same time given the opportunity to jump back into his profession, reap the ridiculously large financial rewards of the NFL and regain his superstar status.
The NFL really needs a new policy that prevents violent convicted felons from playing within the NFL where they are viewed as role models, not only for children but the entire population.
I believe in second chances and you can't fault Michael Vick for trying to get back to work, for me it's just too soon.
Thank goodness he's not a Bear!
8/15/09 Update: Found a great article by Doyle Albee related to my post.
Honestly, the NFL shouldn't have even considered hiring Vick until he had completed his parol requirements and been an animal advocate against dog fighting and animal abuse for a considerable amount of time, beyond what was required by his plea agreement. Then perhaps a second chance would have been easier to swallow. Right now the wounds are just too fresh and the remorse seems too contrived.
What is very disturbing is the message it sends to the kids that idolize him. They need to see that dogfighters never succeed, they are criminals, and there’s no good outcome if you get involved. However, in my eyes, Vick's outcome is good so at best it's a clouded message that he is advocating against dog fighting while at the same time given the opportunity to jump back into his profession, reap the ridiculously large financial rewards of the NFL and regain his superstar status.
The NFL really needs a new policy that prevents violent convicted felons from playing within the NFL where they are viewed as role models, not only for children but the entire population.
I believe in second chances and you can't fault Michael Vick for trying to get back to work, for me it's just too soon.
Thank goodness he's not a Bear!
8/15/09 Update: Found a great article by Doyle Albee related to my post.
8.01.2009
Largest Dog Fighting Ring in U.S .Busted
July 10, 2009. A year-long investigation by federal, state, and local law enforcement agencies has resulted in the arrests of approximately 30 people across five states in what officials are calling the largest dog fighting operation ever seen in the U.S.In addition to the arrests, about 350 dogs—mostly pit bull terriers—were seized during early-morning raids in Missouri, Texas, Illinois, Iowa, and Oklahoma and will be cared for by local humane societies. Those arrested for their involvement face felony charges that carry maximum sentences of five years in prison and fines of up to $250,000.
I guess I missed the breaking headline stories in the news on this or perhaps something was just more important to report.
All the gory details here.
FYI...Since 2007, dog fighting is banned throughout the country and is a felony in all 50 states.
7.29.2009
Are You Kidding Me...Michael Vick is Back?
I cannot believe Michael Vick has been reinstated by the NFL. I can only hope no team is dumb enought to hire him.
Please send a message to the NFL and let them know violent criminals should not be allowed to play in the NFL.
Please send a message to the NFL and let them know violent criminals should not be allowed to play in the NFL.
7.23.2009
To Flexi or Not To Flexi
After 11 years of walking with a stationary, 6-foot leather leash, I'm now all about the Flexi. Well, I'm not all about it, but it's my new toy. I mean Bailey's new toy.
OK, so everyone knows I've been helping foster Erwin. Well, Erwin came with a Flexi. I hated it at first, I despised it and all it stands for. But then one day, for no reason at all, I hooked Erwin's Flexi on Bailey's harness and started walking. I was hooked too.
It allows me to continue walking even when Bailey decides to stop and sniff for a second. Before I was stopping and starting and stopping and starting, you know what I mean. This way I just keep walking and then he catches up. Ahhhhh.
If for some reason you are not acquainted with a Flexi, it is a retractable leash. Correction, it is THE retractable leash with one-hand-operated braking and retracting, made in Germany. ("You know the Germans always make good stuff.") It comes in three sizes depending on your dogs weight and ranges in cost from $12 to $45. They have two basic styles that most stores carry and some jazzed up versions you can find online.
Of course no Flexi would be complete without some accessories. They offer a saddlebag to carry your phone, keys, etc. and a light. I'm definitely considering the light!
With all that said, there are strong warnings and precautions you need to take when using the Flexi. First, I would not recommend a Flexi for puppies and dogs that have not learned how to walk on a 6-foot stationary leash properly. This includes toy and small breeds. And never use a Flexi if your dog pulls. Both Erwin and Bailey are very calm dogs that walk perfectly on a leash so they are the best candidates for a Flexi.
Also, when using a Flexi you must use caution. Cuts, burns, amputations and fractures can occur if you do not use the Flexi properly. Yup, this is serious stuff. It's easier than you think for neighbors and friends to get caught up in your Flexi and get hurt. But if you read the insert that comes with your Flexi and use your brain, you should have smooth sailing on your walks.
Bailey and I Flexi, do you?
P.S. If you happen to take your cat for walks, they make a special Flexi for Kitties too!
8-24-10 Update: Flexi has an all belt version that I would highly recommend over the traditional cord version. The all belt version will eliminate many of cuts, burns and amputations that frequently occur with the cord version.
OK, so everyone knows I've been helping foster Erwin. Well, Erwin came with a Flexi. I hated it at first, I despised it and all it stands for. But then one day, for no reason at all, I hooked Erwin's Flexi on Bailey's harness and started walking. I was hooked too.
It allows me to continue walking even when Bailey decides to stop and sniff for a second. Before I was stopping and starting and stopping and starting, you know what I mean. This way I just keep walking and then he catches up. Ahhhhh.
If for some reason you are not acquainted with a Flexi, it is a retractable leash. Correction, it is THE retractable leash with one-hand-operated braking and retracting, made in Germany. ("You know the Germans always make good stuff.") It comes in three sizes depending on your dogs weight and ranges in cost from $12 to $45. They have two basic styles that most stores carry and some jazzed up versions you can find online.
Of course no Flexi would be complete without some accessories. They offer a saddlebag to carry your phone, keys, etc. and a light. I'm definitely considering the light!With all that said, there are strong warnings and precautions you need to take when using the Flexi. First, I would not recommend a Flexi for puppies and dogs that have not learned how to walk on a 6-foot stationary leash properly. This includes toy and small breeds. And never use a Flexi if your dog pulls. Both Erwin and Bailey are very calm dogs that walk perfectly on a leash so they are the best candidates for a Flexi.Also, when using a Flexi you must use caution. Cuts, burns, amputations and fractures can occur if you do not use the Flexi properly. Yup, this is serious stuff. It's easier than you think for neighbors and friends to get caught up in your Flexi and get hurt. But if you read the insert that comes with your Flexi and use your brain, you should have smooth sailing on your walks.
Bailey and I Flexi, do you?
P.S. If you happen to take your cat for walks, they make a special Flexi for Kitties too!
8-24-10 Update: Flexi has an all belt version that I would highly recommend over the traditional cord version. The all belt version will eliminate many of cuts, burns and amputations that frequently occur with the cord version.
6.09.2009
Erwin Needs A Home!
9/1/09 Update: Erwin's Foster Mom officially adopted Erwin. He is just such a good buddy that she could not live without him. Thank you to everyone who helped get Erwin adopted.
8/15/09 Update: Erwin still has not found a forever home and is living with one of his Foster Mom's Karen. He is living the good life and he definitely knows it. Erwin is a wonderful dog that I know would make someone a great companion! Please consider making him your buddy.
Erwin’s Mom died and he has no family or friends that want him. I have been fostering him, along with two other neighbors, but it’s time for him to move on to a single, loving and forever home.
He is a wonderful and sweet 14 year old, neutered/male, Llasa Apso who is content to just hang out with you. He is larger than the breed standard, he weighs about 24 lbs. He had a complete blood panel in preparation for a much needed dental cleaning and it showed he is in overall good health. His dental has been done and he was given a clean bill of health by the Vet.
Erwin needs someone who will just love and pamper him like his Mom did. Here’s a little more information about Erwin:
*Completely potty trained
*Very cooperative in general
*Some hearing loss and a touch of arthritis in his rear leg
*Loves car rides, great on walks and adores exploring new places
*Totally mellow and great to hang out with/ He will follow you around from room to room
*Loves to be pet, massaged and puppy loved
*Great grooming attitude
*Thunderstorms and extremely loud rain create some mild anxiety—he wants to be right next to you but he has no problem going potty outside in the rain
*Not used to kids, dogs or cats / ideally Erwin would be the only animal in the house. He does tolerate other animals and kids as long as they are not wild/excited and mind their own business
*Erwin is an inside dog and cannot tolerate hot weather, he needs A/C
If you are interested in adopting Erwin or know anyone who might be interested in adopting Erwin, please email me ASAP. Erwin is located in the Northern Suburbs of Chicago.
4.07.2009
Estate Planning for your Pets
It’s a sad fact that more than 500,000 pets are killed in shelters and veterinary offices each year after an owner dies or becomes incapacitated. What will happen to your pets if you pass away or become incapacitated and cannot care for them?
While not pleasant to think about, as a responsible pet owner you should consider making advanced plans to protect your pet from an uncertain future.
The simplest way of providing for your pet’s care in the event of your death is to provide in your will that ownership of your pet shall go to a particular person. However, there is a drawback to this approach: Even if you leave a certain amount of money to the caretaker you have designated for the care of your pet, there is no practical way of assuring that those funds will be used for their intended purpose or that your specific instructions concerning your pet’s care will be followed.
A more complicated – but more secure – way to provide for your pet’s care is through a pet trust. The idea is simple: you designate a caretaker to look after your pet in the event of your death or incapacity, and a trustee to make sure that trust assets are used for the care of the pet and to generally look over the caretaker’s shoulder. You then fund the trust with whatever amount of money you have decided is appropriate for your pet’s future needs. Edit 5/29/09: Animal Law Attorney, Julia Magnus suggested to me that you specify the trust go to a charity, of your choice, upon the death of your pet. This extra measure removes any incentive for your pet's guardian to end your pet's life early to access the cash in the trust.
First, you should consult with an estate-planning attorney to find out whether your state has a provision for statutory pet trusts and, if not, what the law is in your state. Whatever legal means you use to provide for your pet’s care, you should be sure to include, at minimum, the following information in the documents:
-Clear identification of the pet(s); this may include distinctive markings, age, sex, and breed. You might wish to consider microchip implantation and/or DNA identification.
-Specific, detailed care instructions: Is there a particular food that your pet prefers? How often should your pet be fed? Walked?
-What about medications? Food allergies? Medical conditions that require special care?
-Name, address, and telephone number of your pet’s veterinarian.
And make sure those people on whom you are relying to carry out your wishes have access to your estate planning documents and pet care information. It's also a good idea to find at least two responsible friends or relatives who agree to serve as temporary caregivers in the event that something unexpected happens to you. Provide them with keys to your home; feeding and care instructions; the name of your veterinarian; and information about the permanent care provisions you have made for your pet.
Remember: a pet trust is a legal document that should be prepared by a qualified attorney who appreciates the importance of your pet in your life. Taking the necessary steps now to ensure that your pet will be well cared for will give you peace of mind.
More information on estate planning for your pet.
This blog entry is dedicated to the memory of our neighbor Carol whose sudden death has left a whole in our hearts and an uncertain future for her beloved dog Erwin.
3.26.2009
Watch the Water
The parasite Giardia is contracted by dogs that drink contaminated water, commonly found in puddles or lakes or even on wet kennel floors.
Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, and hair loss, and puppies are at highest risk.
Keep your dog away from water sources that may be contaminated and from wildlife fecal matter, and make sure to wash your hands after playing with pets.
See your vet if you suspect that your dog has been infected.
Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, and hair loss, and puppies are at highest risk.
Keep your dog away from water sources that may be contaminated and from wildlife fecal matter, and make sure to wash your hands after playing with pets.
See your vet if you suspect that your dog has been infected.
3.21.2009
Factoid About Puppies and Kittens
I was watching Dogtown and since I record it on my DVR I usually wiz right by the commercials, but I was multitasking and missed hitting the button. Anyway, Puperoni* sponsored a public service spot that stated;
70,000 puppies and kittens are born everyday while only 10,000 babies are born each day.
Now you have a frame of reference for the pet overpopulation problem.
*Puperoni is chemical laden, doggie junk food. Please do not give it to your dogs. But I do appreciate their public service on behalf of dogs and cats.
70,000 puppies and kittens are born everyday while only 10,000 babies are born each day.
Now you have a frame of reference for the pet overpopulation problem.
*Puperoni is chemical laden, doggie junk food. Please do not give it to your dogs. But I do appreciate their public service on behalf of dogs and cats.
3.18.2009
Parvovirus
My heart goes out to Oprah for the loss of her Cocker Spaniel puppy, Ivan, she recently adopoted from PAWS-Chicago. He died from Parvovirus despite receiving the best medical care possible. His sister, Sadie, also adopted by Oprah, is currently battling the disease and we are hoping she makes a full recovery very soon.
Needless to say since Oprah is involved, Parvovirus is all over the news. I thought it was a great time to clear up much confusion about Parvo.
What is Parvo?
Canine Parvovirus is currently the most common infectious disease of dogs in the United States and is a huge killer of puppies. It is extremely contagious.
Parvo targets rapidly dividing cells in the body. For this reason, the dog's intestines -- where cells divide at a rapid rate -- are usually affected first by Parvo. This causes Parvo symptoms such as bloody diarrhea, dehydration, lethargy and intestinal inflammation that prevent the dog's digestive system from absorbing nutrients.
In rare cases, Parvovirus can also attack the dog's heart, causing inflammation and sudden heart failure. Heart failure from Parvo is most common in puppies and less common in adults, as the heart cells in puppies rapidly divide as the dog's heart grows.
Parvo Symptoms
Many adult dogs exposed to the virus show very few, if any, symptoms. The majority of cases of disease are seen in dogs less than 6 months of age with the most severe cases seen in puppies younger than 12 weeks of age.
The most common form of the disease is the intestinal form known as enteritis. Parvovirus enteritis is characterized by vomiting (often severe), diarrhea, dehydration, dark or bloody feces, and in severe cases, fever and lowered white blood cell counts. Acute Parvovirus enteritis can be seen in dogs of any breed, sex, or age. The disease will progress very rapidly and death can occur as early as two days after the onset of the disease. The presence of gram negative bacteria, parasites, or other viruses can worsen the severity of the disease and slow recovery.
How Do Dogs Get Parvo?
Parvovirus is most commonly transmitted when a healthy dog contacts the feces of an infected dog. In ideal conditions, the Parvovirus can live on surfaces (i.e. clothing, food bowls, cages floors, dog toys, bedding, blankets, kennels) and in the environment for nearly six months, making it possible for a dog to get Parvo months after an infected dog has visited a location. Insects and rodents may also serve as vectors playing an important role in the transmission of the disease. Puppies can also get Parvo from their Mom while still in the womb.
The normal incubation period (time from exposure to the virus to the time when signs of disease appear) is from 7-14 days. Feces can contain the virus as soon as the third day after exposure, often before clinical signs appear, and may last for one to two weeks after they contract the disease.
How is Parvo Diagnosed?
Not all cases of bloody diarrhea with or without vomiting are caused by Parvovirus and many sick puppies are misdiagnosed as having 'Parvo.' The only way to know if a dog has Parvovirus is through a positive diagnostic test. In addition to the more time consuming and expensive traditional testing of the blood for titers, a simpler test of the feces with an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay antigen test (ELISA), commonly called the CITE test, is also available through most veterinary clinics. Testing of all suspect cases of Parvo is the only way to correctly diagnose and treat this disease. A complete physical exam and additional laboratory tests such as a CBC and chemistry panel help to determine the severity of the disease.
How is Parvovirus Disease Treated?
Replacing fluids lost through vomiting and diarrhea is probably the single most important treatment. IV administration of an electrolyte solution is preferred, but in less severe cases, oral fluids may be used. In severe cases, blood transfusions may be necessary and have proven successful. Antibiotics are usually given to help control secondary bacterial infections. In those dogs who have severe symptoms, antiserum against endotoxins may be given. Corticosteroids may be given if the animal is in shock. In cases of severe vomiting, drugs to slow the vomiting may also be used. After the intestinal symptoms begin to subside, a de-worming agent is sometimes used. Restricting the food during periods of vomiting is also necessary and IV nutrition may be necessary. Even with the best available care, the mortality of severely infected animals is high.
Parvovirus Vaccinations
The generally recommended protocol is to vaccinate puppies against Parvovirus beginning at 6-8 weeks of age, and revaccinating every 3 weeks until the puppy is 16-20 weeks of age. A booster is given at one year of age and every 1-3 years thereafter.
While Parvo vaccinations will prevent most cases of Parvo, no dog is immune. So even if a puppy is vaccinated against Parvo, there's a chance the puppy could still contract Parvo and die from the virus. If a puppy recovers from Parvovirus infection, he is immune to reinfection for at least twenty months and possibly for life.
Parvovirus -- like all viruses -- has the ability to morph into new strains. So when a new strain emerges, dogs are not protected from this new strain until scientists can identify the new Parvo strain and develop a new version of the vaccine.
Preventing Parvo Transmission
Cleanliness is the only way to prevent transmission. This is why Parvovirus most commonly arises in places where numerous dogs are in close contact - animal shelters, kennels, daycare facilities. However, even the cleanest facility can still have Parvo floating around. It is virtually impossible to have a kennel or dog facility that will not eventually be exposed to Parvo because of its ability to be transmitted through hands, clothes, paws, rodents and insects...
Parvovirus is extremely hardy, resistant to normal cleaning products and high heat. The only household disinfectant that kills the virus is bleach. Ultraviolet light also kills Parvo.
If your dog has been exposed or infected with Parvo, any fecal material or vomit needs to be removed with a detergent first and then a bleach solution. (Use a solution of ½ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Make sure the bleach solution is properly concentrated and allowed to soak the infected area to work effectively.) The bleach solution should be used on bedding, bowls, toys, dishes, kennel floors and other impervious materials that may be contaminated.
Obviously there is much unknown about the virus or the best way to control the disease, but new information is being learned daily. But, prompt treatment by a veterinarian will increase survivability if your dog is infected and working with your veterinarian on a vaccination program that is best for your dog is important. Remember that current vaccinations have helped to control the spread of this disease but despite the best vaccination protocol, all puppies will have a window of susceptibility where they will be at risk and even some vaccinated adult dogs still contract Parvo.
Hopefully with a better understanding of the disease, you will be able to make good health decisions for your dog that will help prevent and reduce the spread of this disease.
P.S. Humans cannot catch Parvo but they can spread it.
Needless to say since Oprah is involved, Parvovirus is all over the news. I thought it was a great time to clear up much confusion about Parvo.
What is Parvo?
Canine Parvovirus is currently the most common infectious disease of dogs in the United States and is a huge killer of puppies. It is extremely contagious.
Parvo targets rapidly dividing cells in the body. For this reason, the dog's intestines -- where cells divide at a rapid rate -- are usually affected first by Parvo. This causes Parvo symptoms such as bloody diarrhea, dehydration, lethargy and intestinal inflammation that prevent the dog's digestive system from absorbing nutrients.
In rare cases, Parvovirus can also attack the dog's heart, causing inflammation and sudden heart failure. Heart failure from Parvo is most common in puppies and less common in adults, as the heart cells in puppies rapidly divide as the dog's heart grows.
Parvo Symptoms
Many adult dogs exposed to the virus show very few, if any, symptoms. The majority of cases of disease are seen in dogs less than 6 months of age with the most severe cases seen in puppies younger than 12 weeks of age.
The most common form of the disease is the intestinal form known as enteritis. Parvovirus enteritis is characterized by vomiting (often severe), diarrhea, dehydration, dark or bloody feces, and in severe cases, fever and lowered white blood cell counts. Acute Parvovirus enteritis can be seen in dogs of any breed, sex, or age. The disease will progress very rapidly and death can occur as early as two days after the onset of the disease. The presence of gram negative bacteria, parasites, or other viruses can worsen the severity of the disease and slow recovery.
How Do Dogs Get Parvo?
Parvovirus is most commonly transmitted when a healthy dog contacts the feces of an infected dog. In ideal conditions, the Parvovirus can live on surfaces (i.e. clothing, food bowls, cages floors, dog toys, bedding, blankets, kennels) and in the environment for nearly six months, making it possible for a dog to get Parvo months after an infected dog has visited a location. Insects and rodents may also serve as vectors playing an important role in the transmission of the disease. Puppies can also get Parvo from their Mom while still in the womb.
The normal incubation period (time from exposure to the virus to the time when signs of disease appear) is from 7-14 days. Feces can contain the virus as soon as the third day after exposure, often before clinical signs appear, and may last for one to two weeks after they contract the disease.
How is Parvo Diagnosed?
Not all cases of bloody diarrhea with or without vomiting are caused by Parvovirus and many sick puppies are misdiagnosed as having 'Parvo.' The only way to know if a dog has Parvovirus is through a positive diagnostic test. In addition to the more time consuming and expensive traditional testing of the blood for titers, a simpler test of the feces with an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay antigen test (ELISA), commonly called the CITE test, is also available through most veterinary clinics. Testing of all suspect cases of Parvo is the only way to correctly diagnose and treat this disease. A complete physical exam and additional laboratory tests such as a CBC and chemistry panel help to determine the severity of the disease.
How is Parvovirus Disease Treated?
Replacing fluids lost through vomiting and diarrhea is probably the single most important treatment. IV administration of an electrolyte solution is preferred, but in less severe cases, oral fluids may be used. In severe cases, blood transfusions may be necessary and have proven successful. Antibiotics are usually given to help control secondary bacterial infections. In those dogs who have severe symptoms, antiserum against endotoxins may be given. Corticosteroids may be given if the animal is in shock. In cases of severe vomiting, drugs to slow the vomiting may also be used. After the intestinal symptoms begin to subside, a de-worming agent is sometimes used. Restricting the food during periods of vomiting is also necessary and IV nutrition may be necessary. Even with the best available care, the mortality of severely infected animals is high.
Parvovirus Vaccinations
The generally recommended protocol is to vaccinate puppies against Parvovirus beginning at 6-8 weeks of age, and revaccinating every 3 weeks until the puppy is 16-20 weeks of age. A booster is given at one year of age and every 1-3 years thereafter.
While Parvo vaccinations will prevent most cases of Parvo, no dog is immune. So even if a puppy is vaccinated against Parvo, there's a chance the puppy could still contract Parvo and die from the virus. If a puppy recovers from Parvovirus infection, he is immune to reinfection for at least twenty months and possibly for life.
Parvovirus -- like all viruses -- has the ability to morph into new strains. So when a new strain emerges, dogs are not protected from this new strain until scientists can identify the new Parvo strain and develop a new version of the vaccine.
Preventing Parvo Transmission
Cleanliness is the only way to prevent transmission. This is why Parvovirus most commonly arises in places where numerous dogs are in close contact - animal shelters, kennels, daycare facilities. However, even the cleanest facility can still have Parvo floating around. It is virtually impossible to have a kennel or dog facility that will not eventually be exposed to Parvo because of its ability to be transmitted through hands, clothes, paws, rodents and insects...
Parvovirus is extremely hardy, resistant to normal cleaning products and high heat. The only household disinfectant that kills the virus is bleach. Ultraviolet light also kills Parvo.
If your dog has been exposed or infected with Parvo, any fecal material or vomit needs to be removed with a detergent first and then a bleach solution. (Use a solution of ½ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Make sure the bleach solution is properly concentrated and allowed to soak the infected area to work effectively.) The bleach solution should be used on bedding, bowls, toys, dishes, kennel floors and other impervious materials that may be contaminated.
Obviously there is much unknown about the virus or the best way to control the disease, but new information is being learned daily. But, prompt treatment by a veterinarian will increase survivability if your dog is infected and working with your veterinarian on a vaccination program that is best for your dog is important. Remember that current vaccinations have helped to control the spread of this disease but despite the best vaccination protocol, all puppies will have a window of susceptibility where they will be at risk and even some vaccinated adult dogs still contract Parvo.
Hopefully with a better understanding of the disease, you will be able to make good health decisions for your dog that will help prevent and reduce the spread of this disease.
P.S. Humans cannot catch Parvo but they can spread it.
3.17.2009
How Old is Your Dog?
The old saying that a dog ages seven years for every human year isn't exactly true. A dogs weight factors into how fast he ages.
Use this chart to accurately determine your dog's age in human years:
Bailey is 11 years old and he weighs 11 lbs. In human years he is 60 and considered a 'Senior'.
Use this chart to accurately determine your dog's age in human years:
Bailey is 11 years old and he weighs 11 lbs. In human years he is 60 and considered a 'Senior'.
3.14.2009
ACV - An Apple A Day
For centuries, people have recognized apple cider vinegar’s health benefits and lately this ‘old world’ super product’s benefits are making a come back.
Apple cider vinegar can do wonders for your pets (and you too). It contains more than 30 important nutrients, 12 minerals, over 6 vitamins, essential acids and several enzymes. It has a large dose of pectin for a healthy heart, lowers blood pressure, is antibacterial and anti-fungal and gives the immune system a good boost. As a high potassium electrolyte balancer, it remineralizes the body and helps balance pH levels.
Though not a cure-all, when used daily, apple cider vinegar is said to treat, and may even cure, many common pet conditions and ailments. Taken internally it helps them maintain a healthy weight level, aids in digestion, relieves arthritis stiffness, removes body toxins, prevents tear stains and helps to repel fleas. It gives them beautiful coats, more vitality, improves digestion, can help with urinary issues and is a natural deodorant. Used topically, ACV helps maintain healthy skin, prevents itching, helps with dandruff, soothes hot spots and sore muscles.
Organic, unfiltered, raw apple cider vinegar is the type to choose. I use Bragg’s which is readily available. I pick it up at Whole Foods but it is popping up in more mainstream retailers and health food stores.
Many holistic Vets recommend a daily dosage of ACV as follows:
1 tsp (5 ml) for cats and small dogs (up to 14 lb)
2 tsp (10 ml) for medium dogs (15 to 34 lb)
1 tbsp (15 ml) for large dogs (35 to 84 lb)
Give half the daily dosage with breakfast and half with dinner, just pour over their food.
Note: this is for healthy pets with no medical conditions. Please consult with your Vet when adding any type of supplement to your pet’s diet.
Topically, you can use either full strength or diluted ACV on affected areas avoiding the eyes and mucous membranes.
ACV is a great bath treatment: shampoo, rinse, apply ACV, rinse again. Any residue shampoo will be washed out and you will feel and see an increased softness and sheen to your pet’s coat. You can also follow with a conditioner. I suggest that you use an extremely gentle, all-natural, organic shampoo free of SLS and Parabens.
ACV is cheap, easy to use and it really can benefit your pet’s overall health.
3.07.2009
Overnight Vet Stay
Does your veterinarian provide around-the-clock care following surgery? You need to ask.
Several years ago when Bailey was having emergency bladder stone surgery I was a total wreck. The vet gave me very few details but told me that Bailey would have to stay overnight. I was hesitant to be away from him but the vet told me that it was necessary for his recovery. I agreed but I asked if I could meet the person that would be staying with him. (I wanted them to know just how special Bailey is and give them my cell number.) I was completely shocked to find out that there would be no one monitoring him overnight.
I promptly said that I would be picking him up and bringing him home after surgery. The vet protested but I would not back down. How could Bailey be better off alone in a vet's office than at home with me watching him constantly? (Would they do that to a human after major surgery?) If anything looked strange I could get him to the Emergency Vet, but if I left him alone in the vet's office and something happened, he would suffer and not get any help.
If your dog needs surgery that requires an overnight stay, make sure a vet or trained assistant is available to monitor them throughout the night. If not, you might want to consider bringing your pet home. My instincts were right on the money to protest no overnight monitoring because problems associated with surgery are most likely to arise during the first 24 hours of recovery.
Be warned, if the surgery was 'major' your pet is going to be in really bad shape. You need to provide a quiet, comfortable , stress-free environment for them, think Intensive Care Unit at a hospital.
I was not prepared to see Bailey in his 'after surgery' condition. It took all my strength to hold back the tears and pay the bill. He laid on my lap the entire way home like a wet noodle. His incision leaked blood on my jeans. He barely moved the entire night. But I was right next to him monitoring every breath.
Luckily my little trooper recovered from this one fast and without incident. Fingers crossed if there is a next one.
Several years ago when Bailey was having emergency bladder stone surgery I was a total wreck. The vet gave me very few details but told me that Bailey would have to stay overnight. I was hesitant to be away from him but the vet told me that it was necessary for his recovery. I agreed but I asked if I could meet the person that would be staying with him. (I wanted them to know just how special Bailey is and give them my cell number.) I was completely shocked to find out that there would be no one monitoring him overnight.
I promptly said that I would be picking him up and bringing him home after surgery. The vet protested but I would not back down. How could Bailey be better off alone in a vet's office than at home with me watching him constantly? (Would they do that to a human after major surgery?) If anything looked strange I could get him to the Emergency Vet, but if I left him alone in the vet's office and something happened, he would suffer and not get any help.
If your dog needs surgery that requires an overnight stay, make sure a vet or trained assistant is available to monitor them throughout the night. If not, you might want to consider bringing your pet home. My instincts were right on the money to protest no overnight monitoring because problems associated with surgery are most likely to arise during the first 24 hours of recovery.
Be warned, if the surgery was 'major' your pet is going to be in really bad shape. You need to provide a quiet, comfortable , stress-free environment for them, think Intensive Care Unit at a hospital.
I was not prepared to see Bailey in his 'after surgery' condition. It took all my strength to hold back the tears and pay the bill. He laid on my lap the entire way home like a wet noodle. His incision leaked blood on my jeans. He barely moved the entire night. But I was right next to him monitoring every breath.
Luckily my little trooper recovered from this one fast and without incident. Fingers crossed if there is a next one.
3.03.2009
Epulis
An epulis is the most common benign tumor of the mouth in dogs. It is usually located in the gum tissue near the incisors or canine teeth. It originates in the connective tissue that holds the teeth to the bone of the jaw. The literal translation of "epulis" is "gum boil." The cause of epulides is unknown, but they do occur more commonly in older dogs and Boxers. And they occur equally in both sexes.
There are three types of epulides (the plural for epulis):
1. Fibromatous: Consists of tough, fibrous tissue.
2. Ossifying: In addition to fibrous tissue, also contains bone cells. These may transform into cancerous tumors.
3. Acanthomatous: More invasive, growing into the normal bone around it and destroying it, but not metastasizing.
How is an Epulis Found?
Usually, epulides are simply noticed during teeth brushing. The tumor is usually the same color as the gum tissue, has a smooth surface, and may be attached to the gum via a peduncle (a stalk-like structure). As the epulis enlarges a dog may drool, have difficulty eating or lose his appetite, have bad breath, bleed from the area of the tumor, or even have trouble breathing depending upon the size and location of the tumor. It may push apart and misalign the adjacent teeth. There is often more than one epulis present.
How is an epulis diagnosed?
An epulis may be suspected by its location and appearance, but it is necessary to biopsy the tumor to distinguish if from other oral tumors. A pathologist will examine the tissue microscopically to determine if it is an epulis, and of what type. Other oral tumors include squamous cell carcinoma (malignant), and other benign tumors such as fibromas, lipomas, and histiocytomas.
How is an epulis treated?
Surgery is necessary to remove the epulis. A wide margin (large portion of healthy tissue around the tumor, possible including some bone) needs to be taken to assure all of the epulis is removed. If a portion remains, it will often regrow. The teeth next to the epulis usually need to be removed, as well. Large epulides may also be treated with radiation.
What is the prognosis for a dog with an epulis?
If the epulis is small and all of the tumor is removed, the prognosis is good. The larger the tumor, the more likely a recurrence or complications. Acanthomatous epulides have a more guarded prognosis since they are much more difficult to completely remove. On rare instances, radiation therapy has resulted in the tumor becoming cancerous.
Bailey had not one but two Epulides removed, not once but twice. They grew back in less than a year. He is recovering nicely from his surgery yesterday.
2.20.2009
Fur Fighter?
Does it work? Is it just another gimmick?
I love 3M products in general so I am intrigued, but I have no way to test it since Bailey doesn't shed. Anyone out there try it? If not and you have a sofa full of pet fur, print the online coupon and give it a go.
Oh, and let me know what you think.
2.18.2009
Poop Frustration
PICK UP AFTER YOUR DOG, IT'S DISGUSTING!
I am becoming increasingly frustrated on every walk, there is poop everywhere. And I feel terrible walking by my neighbors homes that don't own a dog and their lawns are covered with poop piles.
You own a dog, it is your responsibility to pick up their poop, day and night, in all weather.
FOR HEAVEN'S SAKE, SCOOP YOUR POOP!
P.S. When you don't scoop the poop you are breaking the law.
I am becoming increasingly frustrated on every walk, there is poop everywhere. And I feel terrible walking by my neighbors homes that don't own a dog and their lawns are covered with poop piles.
You own a dog, it is your responsibility to pick up their poop, day and night, in all weather.
FOR HEAVEN'S SAKE, SCOOP YOUR POOP!
P.S. When you don't scoop the poop you are breaking the law.
2.14.2009
Michael Vick for Trade
Looks like the Falcons will try to trade the contract rights on Michael Vick to another team. That's a smart play!
For anyone who doesn't know, Michael Vick is the disgusting S.O.B. currently in federal prison on felony convictions for dogfighting, animal abuse/cruelty. (For more of the gory and heart breaking details of the animal abuse just Google him.) He is scheduled to be released in July.
Vick has a contract that runs to 2013 and calls for him to receive a base salary of $9 million and a bonus of $6.43 million in 2009. The remainder of the contract is worth $45.11 million, with another possible $3 million in Pro Bowl bonuses.
The Falcons stated, “We feel a trade is the best move for the Falcons, and it’s also in the best interest for Michael,”. “This has been a really unique situation from a variety of standpoints and because we will actively be involved in a trade situation, I don’t envision our organization speaking any more about this subject publicly until it’s reached a resolution.”
NFL spokesman Greg Aiello Friday reiterated commissioner Roger Goodell’s statement when he suspended Vick on Aug. 24 2007 that he will review Vick’s status when legal proceedings are done.
I personally will be boycotting the NFL if they allow this criminal to return to the game. Our sports team members are role models for our children and represent our country to the world. We cannot allow bad people to become superstars and role models.
I will be using my voice to make sure Vick's heinous actions are not forgotten. I will also be reaching out to my local, federal and state governments to put pressure on the NFL to get rid of this guy. I hope you do to.
Vick has a contract that runs to 2013 and calls for him to receive a base salary of $9 million and a bonus of $6.43 million in 2009. The remainder of the contract is worth $45.11 million, with another possible $3 million in Pro Bowl bonuses.
The Falcons stated, “We feel a trade is the best move for the Falcons, and it’s also in the best interest for Michael,”. “This has been a really unique situation from a variety of standpoints and because we will actively be involved in a trade situation, I don’t envision our organization speaking any more about this subject publicly until it’s reached a resolution.”
NFL spokesman Greg Aiello Friday reiterated commissioner Roger Goodell’s statement when he suspended Vick on Aug. 24 2007 that he will review Vick’s status when legal proceedings are done.
I personally will be boycotting the NFL if they allow this criminal to return to the game. Our sports team members are role models for our children and represent our country to the world. We cannot allow bad people to become superstars and role models.
I will be using my voice to make sure Vick's heinous actions are not forgotten. I will also be reaching out to my local, federal and state governments to put pressure on the NFL to get rid of this guy. I hope you do to.
2.12.2009
Age Doesn't Matter at Westminster!
We love your story, we love your charisma, we love your name, we love your droopy eyes and we love your long ears. Who cares how old you are, the best dog won Best in Show.
Congratulations Stump!
Congratulations Stump!
Understanding Pet Food Nutrition Labels
Since I cook Bailey's food I can very closely monitor how much protein, fat, carbohydrate and other nutrients he is getting in each meal using nutrition information and calculators that are widely available for humans.
It's not so easy if you are reading a can or bag of dog (or cat) food because pet food labels do not generally list amounts of essential nutrients in grams. They are not required to by AAFCO, the governing body for pet food. However, all pet food labels must state guarantees for the minimum percentages of crude protein and crude fat, and the maximum percentages of crude fiber and moisture.
That's pretty much meaningless information because most people, including me, have no clue what a percentage of protein or fat means in terms of real nutrition. We relate to nutrition in grams since that is what is is stated on human food labels.
Here is a simple conversion to determining grams of nutrients from pet food labels:
Multiply the crude percentages times the weight of your dog's daily portion. For example, if you feed your dog a 1-lb (454-gram) can of food per day, and the food contains 8% crude protein, the grams of protein would be 0.08 ✕ 454 = 36 grams.*
I know what's going through your mind right now, why don't pet food companies just label their food with the same nutrition information that is on human food. I have posed this question to a few of the pet food companies I've contacted...so far the answer I've received is that AAFCO doesn't require it. I've also heard that AAFCO is difficult to deal with. (No kidding, a government agency that is difficult to deal with, how strange.)
So why not just go around AAFCO and put AAFCO's required information on the label in addition to a human grade nutrition panel? (Interesting concept.) It requires less effort and less cost for pet food companies to just follow AAFCO's requirements. Plus, it keeps consumers in the dark which makes it so much easier to sell them crap.
I just wish pet food companies would stop using the 'smoke and mirrors' approach to pet food nutrition labeling and just put their money where their mouth is, on the label for all to see and understand. But they don't have to, they have AAFCO as their fall guy.
If AAFCO would pull their heads out of their butts, maybe they would realize it would be super easy for them to change pet food labeling requirements.....hello human food labeling laws already exist, they just need to tap into one of their sister agencies, the FDA. Then with the flip of a switch, they can require pet food companies to adhere to those standards. (Ouch, that sounds expensive for pet food companies! OMG do I see a Lobbyist?)
Consumers need to speak out and demand meaningful pet food labeling laws or nothing will change.
*Information from BANR, Board on Agriculture and Natural Resources.
It's not so easy if you are reading a can or bag of dog (or cat) food because pet food labels do not generally list amounts of essential nutrients in grams. They are not required to by AAFCO, the governing body for pet food. However, all pet food labels must state guarantees for the minimum percentages of crude protein and crude fat, and the maximum percentages of crude fiber and moisture.
That's pretty much meaningless information because most people, including me, have no clue what a percentage of protein or fat means in terms of real nutrition. We relate to nutrition in grams since that is what is is stated on human food labels.
Here is a simple conversion to determining grams of nutrients from pet food labels:
Multiply the crude percentages times the weight of your dog's daily portion. For example, if you feed your dog a 1-lb (454-gram) can of food per day, and the food contains 8% crude protein, the grams of protein would be 0.08 ✕ 454 = 36 grams.*
I know what's going through your mind right now, why don't pet food companies just label their food with the same nutrition information that is on human food. I have posed this question to a few of the pet food companies I've contacted...so far the answer I've received is that AAFCO doesn't require it. I've also heard that AAFCO is difficult to deal with. (No kidding, a government agency that is difficult to deal with, how strange.)
So why not just go around AAFCO and put AAFCO's required information on the label in addition to a human grade nutrition panel? (Interesting concept.) It requires less effort and less cost for pet food companies to just follow AAFCO's requirements. Plus, it keeps consumers in the dark which makes it so much easier to sell them crap.
I just wish pet food companies would stop using the 'smoke and mirrors' approach to pet food nutrition labeling and just put their money where their mouth is, on the label for all to see and understand. But they don't have to, they have AAFCO as their fall guy.
If AAFCO would pull their heads out of their butts, maybe they would realize it would be super easy for them to change pet food labeling requirements.....hello human food labeling laws already exist, they just need to tap into one of their sister agencies, the FDA. Then with the flip of a switch, they can require pet food companies to adhere to those standards. (Ouch, that sounds expensive for pet food companies! OMG do I see a Lobbyist?)
Consumers need to speak out and demand meaningful pet food labeling laws or nothing will change.
*Information from BANR, Board on Agriculture and Natural Resources.
1.30.2009
Halo Free Trial Offer
The great folks at Halo saw my post about their company and want all my readers to try their products. They have set up a special offer just for Good Dogkeeping: www.halopets.com/gooddogkeepingI encourage you to take advantage of the offer and start feeding your dog the high quality nutrition they deserve.
Note: when introducing any new food to your dog, you must do it gradually. Start adding the new food slowly and decreasing the old food over time. Also, if your pet snubs the new food, you have to give it time. They have eaten the same thing for their entire life and, not unlike people, some dogs don't accept change as easily as others, even when it is good for them. It also takes time for their digestive system to get used to different foods so be patient with their poop.
Anal Glands
I probably wouldn’t even know the story on anal glands, but Bailey had an impacted anal gland when he was a puppy. The poor thing had to be sedated (because of the pain) and have his impacted anal gland expressed and flushed with antibiotics. After that we had been on a bi-monthly visit to the vet to get his anal glands expressed. About a year later we moved to quarterly and have continued on a regular basis.
Anal gland issues are very common so it is important to understand what’s going on. Here is a great explanation of anal glands by Dr. Dan in Ohio.
What are the anal sacs and what is their purpose?
The archaic anal sacs are an organ of the past and have no purpose in modern pets. The anal sacs are paired organs located beneath the skin and anal sphincter muscles at about the five and seven o'clock positions surrounding the rectum (See the first image below). Tiny ducts lead to the tissue just inside the rectum. The secretion that comes from these glands is brown in color and about the consistency of water or oil. The secretion has a very disagreeable odor to humans. As the pet defecates, the anal sphincter squeezes the sacs against the hard passing feces and causes the anal secretion to discharge onto the fecal mass. In olden times, this was used to mark a unique scent on the BM. It was like a sign-post used to communicate with the other dogs and cats.
Why so many problems?
You will notice in the above description that the anal sphincter must squeeze the sac against hard feces to express the contents. My idea of why modern pets have so many problems is that the feces are just not hard enough. In ancient times, dogs and cats ate large quantities of meat and bone making their feces the consistency of concrete. Now, we feed diets with vegetable protein as the main ingredient. This produces a much softer stool so there is nothing for the glands to be squeezed against. The secretions build up and the pet has problems.
The degree of problems.
When the fluid begins building up and the animal scoots to try to relieve the pressure we have signs of an impaction. Treatment at this point will save the pet from more serious problems later on. This is why the anal sacs should always be checked by the veterinarian or groomer whenever working with the pet. If the secretion stays in the sacs for very long it begins to thicken and become like peanut butter in consistency. At this point it is very difficult to be expressed and subject to bacterial invasion and abscessation. Once an abscess forms and there is no route of escape for the secretion and pus it may rupture through the skin causing an unsightly mess and lots of pain for the pet (See the second image below). This is a situation we want to avoid.
Anal gland issues are very common so it is important to understand what’s going on. Here is a great explanation of anal glands by Dr. Dan in Ohio.
What are the anal sacs and what is their purpose?The archaic anal sacs are an organ of the past and have no purpose in modern pets. The anal sacs are paired organs located beneath the skin and anal sphincter muscles at about the five and seven o'clock positions surrounding the rectum (See the first image below). Tiny ducts lead to the tissue just inside the rectum. The secretion that comes from these glands is brown in color and about the consistency of water or oil. The secretion has a very disagreeable odor to humans. As the pet defecates, the anal sphincter squeezes the sacs against the hard passing feces and causes the anal secretion to discharge onto the fecal mass. In olden times, this was used to mark a unique scent on the BM. It was like a sign-post used to communicate with the other dogs and cats.
Why so many problems?
You will notice in the above description that the anal sphincter must squeeze the sac against hard feces to express the contents. My idea of why modern pets have so many problems is that the feces are just not hard enough. In ancient times, dogs and cats ate large quantities of meat and bone making their feces the consistency of concrete. Now, we feed diets with vegetable protein as the main ingredient. This produces a much softer stool so there is nothing for the glands to be squeezed against. The secretions build up and the pet has problems.
The degree of problems.
When the fluid begins building up and the animal scoots to try to relieve the pressure we have signs of an impaction. Treatment at this point will save the pet from more serious problems later on. This is why the anal sacs should always be checked by the veterinarian or groomer whenever working with the pet. If the secretion stays in the sacs for very long it begins to thicken and become like peanut butter in consistency. At this point it is very difficult to be expressed and subject to bacterial invasion and abscessation. Once an abscess forms and there is no route of escape for the secretion and pus it may rupture through the skin causing an unsightly mess and lots of pain for the pet (See the second image below). This is a situation we want to avoid.
Expressing the anal glands.
Normally the anal sacs are about the size of a kidney bean and difficult to feel beneath the skin surrounding the rectum. As they become impacted they increase in size until they feel like grapes or walnuts beneath the skin. It is at this stage that they should be expressed. Since the secretion smells so bad, it is a good idea to do this at bath time. To express the normal glands you just put a finger on each side of the rectum on the outside edges of the anal sacs. You then press towards the rectum, up and inward to trap the sacs. If a fluid is not expressed then you need assistance from your veterinarian. The secretion may have thickened or you haven't mastered the technique. (I would like to interject here. Bailey’s vets use the rectal method of expression. Donning glove and lube they, well, put their finger in his butt. If your dog has ever had a problem with their anal glands, this method may be preferred so any inflammation, thickness or rupture may be discovered right away.)
If the secretion is inspisated (thickened) your veterinarian may need to give a sedative and pass a catheter into the duct of the gland. The anal sac is filled with water and worked until the secretion can be removed. Often times the sacs are then filled with an antibiotic ointment to kill the infection. If the gland has abscessed and broken out to the skin surface the wound must be debrided and flushed with an antiseptic solution daily until the wound heals from the inside out. This is painful, costly and dangerous. Systemic antibiotics must also be used when the glands have abscessed.
Removal of the anal sacs.
If your pet has recurring problems with its' anal sacs the best treatment is the surgical removal of the gland. This is accomplished by first given a general anesthetic and then filling the gland with a synthetic gel which makes them easier to find. Incissions are made and the glands are removed. The surgical incisions are closed with suture material.
Parting words...
If your pet is scooting there has to be a reason. Look for feces stuck to the hair or the evidence of tapeworms or roundworms. If you find neither then it's time to have your veterinarian check the anal sacs. Anal sac problems are extremely common and can cause tremendous pain for your pet. Early treatment can save lots of money for and spare your pet of much discomfort.
Now that you know all about anal glands, feel like expressing them yourself? It’s not for the faint of heart, but if you are up for the challenge, here is a step by step instructional video for you to follow.
How to Express a Dog's Anal Gland -- powered by ExpertVillage.com
Hmmmmmmmm, I’m leaving it up to the professionals.
1.29.2009
Kujo's Story
Voiceless victoms of the economy.....dogs (and cats).
There are many resources for pet owners who find themselves unable to feed or provide medical care for their pets. Please reach out to your community for assistance. Food banks offer pet food, there are pet specific food banks popping up and many shelters/rescue organizations can help you with medical care. They can even help find a temporary foster home to get you through the tough times and keep your pet safe until you can care for them again.
Please contact your local no-kill shelter for assistance. If you know someone going through a difficult financial or health related time, please put them in touch with a no-kill shelter or help them find a good home for their pets.
People in dire straights generally do not ask for help, be proactive!
1.26.2009
Halo Purely for Pets
I cook for my dog Bailey but before I realized I could actually cook for him, (without harming him), I was looking for a dog food that was made like human food with none of the nasty stuff or chemicals. I researched for months.
One of the dog food companies that topped my list was Halo Purely For Pets. At the time they only had canned varieties and I was still brainwashed to think that dogs need dried kibble. Anyway, I called the company to ask a few questions and was shocked that a real person answered the phone and she could actually answer my questions, I didn't have to be transferred or put on hold. Then I bought a few cans to sample. To my surprise, when I opened the can, the food looked unlike any canned dog food I have ever seen, more like the filling of a chicken pot pie than dog food. And it smelled different too, actually good.
The real test was would Bailey eat it. He loved it. I was impressed and while soon after my Halo dog food test I started cooking my own dog food, I keep a few cans of Halo on hand as back up for when I'm in a pinch. I have to admit that I've had to break into my back up stash of Halo on a few occassions. Initially I was concerned that Bailey would snubb the Halo food because he is used to my delicious home cooking. Not the case, he eats it right up and why wouldn't he, Halo is real food.
I still keep up with the Halo company news and saw that Ellen Degeneres purchased a stake in the the company and they expended their product offering to dry kibble in addition to new packaging. I also saw that QVC is now offering Halo's entire product range both on their TV shopping channel and their website. Most recently I saw this great video about the Halo ingredients:
I believe fresh food is the best thing you can do for your dog (or cat) however, I realize that everyone can't do it. So, if you are unwilling or unable to cook choose a food that contains the highest quality ingredients and is as close to home cooked as possible. I think the Halo Purely for Pets product range is a great way to go. Also check out their treats, nutritional supplements, eye and ear care as well as shampoos. (Their Liv-a-Littles freeze dried treats and Herbal Healing Salve continuously receive high marks from all the holistic/natural/organic in-the-know dog community.) This company does it right and I think you will immediately see a difference in your dogs coat, health and attitude.
I've seen Halo at Petco, Whole Foods, QVC and Sunset Foods.
P.S. Halo was NOT part of the 2007 nationwide dog food recall and is made in the USA of all USA ingredients!
One of the dog food companies that topped my list was Halo Purely For Pets. At the time they only had canned varieties and I was still brainwashed to think that dogs need dried kibble. Anyway, I called the company to ask a few questions and was shocked that a real person answered the phone and she could actually answer my questions, I didn't have to be transferred or put on hold. Then I bought a few cans to sample. To my surprise, when I opened the can, the food looked unlike any canned dog food I have ever seen, more like the filling of a chicken pot pie than dog food. And it smelled different too, actually good.
The real test was would Bailey eat it. He loved it. I was impressed and while soon after my Halo dog food test I started cooking my own dog food, I keep a few cans of Halo on hand as back up for when I'm in a pinch. I have to admit that I've had to break into my back up stash of Halo on a few occassions. Initially I was concerned that Bailey would snubb the Halo food because he is used to my delicious home cooking. Not the case, he eats it right up and why wouldn't he, Halo is real food.I still keep up with the Halo company news and saw that Ellen Degeneres purchased a stake in the the company and they expended their product offering to dry kibble in addition to new packaging. I also saw that QVC is now offering Halo's entire product range both on their TV shopping channel and their website. Most recently I saw this great video about the Halo ingredients:
I believe fresh food is the best thing you can do for your dog (or cat) however, I realize that everyone can't do it. So, if you are unwilling or unable to cook choose a food that contains the highest quality ingredients and is as close to home cooked as possible. I think the Halo Purely for Pets product range is a great way to go. Also check out their treats, nutritional supplements, eye and ear care as well as shampoos. (Their Liv-a-Littles freeze dried treats and Herbal Healing Salve continuously receive high marks from all the holistic/natural/organic in-the-know dog community.) This company does it right and I think you will immediately see a difference in your dogs coat, health and attitude.
I've seen Halo at Petco, Whole Foods, QVC and Sunset Foods.
P.S. Halo was NOT part of the 2007 nationwide dog food recall and is made in the USA of all USA ingredients!
1.21.2009
Puppy Mill Legislation Proposed in IL
I was thrilled to learn that IL is targeting Puppy Mills. All I could think is FINALLY!
It was announced at PAWS Chicago, a no-kill animal shelter, that State Rep. John Fritchey (D-Chicago) and State Sen. Dan Kotowski (D-Mount Prospect) have proposed a law that would regulate large-scale dog breeders and pet stores with the goal of cracking down on abusive puppy mills. The Law named Chloe's Bill after a dog rescued from a puppy mill in downstate Macon County, is designed to allow potential guardians to distinguish between puppies who come from caring breeders and those reared in puppy mills.
Backed by the Humane Society of the United States and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Fritchey said, "This isn't something that should be considered radical, it's decent."Fritchey said opposition to the bill may be inevitable, but that he would have concerns about any dog breeder who opposed the law. Puppy mills take a factory-like approach to animal breeding: maximum puppy output with minimal cost and care, Fritchey said. He noted that's in contrast to many reliable breeders, who take loving care of animals and only breed a few dogs at a time.
If passed, the bill would specifically:
1) Create a Dog Breeder License Act, which would prevent breeders from having more than 20 unaltered (not neutered or not spayed) dogs.
2) Deny dog-breeding licenses to people that have been convicted of a felony animal-cruelty crime, including dog fighting.
3) Require dog breeders to keep dogs in buildings without wire flooring. Humane Society officials said Sunday that many puppy mills they've uncovered have dogs in crates stacked high on top of each other, with the wire flooring of the crates destroying the animals' paws.
4) Require breeders to maintain a certain level of heating, cooling, and ventilation.
5) Require pet stores and breeders to provide potential pet buyers with the dog's full medical history, information of spaying and neutering and information about any prior medical care. Humane Society officials said many dogs from puppy mills end up having substantial medical problems because of interbreeding and exposure to disease in cramped environments.
Penalties for violation of these tenets would begin with fines and progress to seizure of the animals and complete closing of breeding operations.
Chloe, the only surviving member of her litter at the puppy mill, is now 6 months old. She attended the news conference wearing a collar with a large bow. Chloe affectionately snuggled into the arms of her adoptive dad, Roy Austin, who heads animal control in Macon County.
The young spaniel, with her giant eyes, floppy ears and a shiny black coat, may have fetched $200 to $400 at a pet store in Illinois and $800 or more if she had been shipped to an upscale pet store in New York state, said Cori Menkin, ASPCA's senior director of legislative initiatives.
Menkin listed the many ailments Chloe suffered from in the puppy mill: The animals were covered with feces and fleas, and they had internal parasites, matted coats and damaged paws from standing 24 hours a day in urine-soaked wires cages."We've seen less enforcement by the USDA [United States Department of Agriculture] and state departments of agriculture than we'd like," Menkin said. "This bill will change many of these horrific conditions."
Article
It was announced at PAWS Chicago, a no-kill animal shelter, that State Rep. John Fritchey (D-Chicago) and State Sen. Dan Kotowski (D-Mount Prospect) have proposed a law that would regulate large-scale dog breeders and pet stores with the goal of cracking down on abusive puppy mills. The Law named Chloe's Bill after a dog rescued from a puppy mill in downstate Macon County, is designed to allow potential guardians to distinguish between puppies who come from caring breeders and those reared in puppy mills.
Backed by the Humane Society of the United States and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Fritchey said, "This isn't something that should be considered radical, it's decent."Fritchey said opposition to the bill may be inevitable, but that he would have concerns about any dog breeder who opposed the law. Puppy mills take a factory-like approach to animal breeding: maximum puppy output with minimal cost and care, Fritchey said. He noted that's in contrast to many reliable breeders, who take loving care of animals and only breed a few dogs at a time.
If passed, the bill would specifically:
1) Create a Dog Breeder License Act, which would prevent breeders from having more than 20 unaltered (not neutered or not spayed) dogs.
2) Deny dog-breeding licenses to people that have been convicted of a felony animal-cruelty crime, including dog fighting.
3) Require dog breeders to keep dogs in buildings without wire flooring. Humane Society officials said Sunday that many puppy mills they've uncovered have dogs in crates stacked high on top of each other, with the wire flooring of the crates destroying the animals' paws.
4) Require breeders to maintain a certain level of heating, cooling, and ventilation.
5) Require pet stores and breeders to provide potential pet buyers with the dog's full medical history, information of spaying and neutering and information about any prior medical care. Humane Society officials said many dogs from puppy mills end up having substantial medical problems because of interbreeding and exposure to disease in cramped environments.
Penalties for violation of these tenets would begin with fines and progress to seizure of the animals and complete closing of breeding operations.
Chloe, the only surviving member of her litter at the puppy mill, is now 6 months old. She attended the news conference wearing a collar with a large bow. Chloe affectionately snuggled into the arms of her adoptive dad, Roy Austin, who heads animal control in Macon County.
The young spaniel, with her giant eyes, floppy ears and a shiny black coat, may have fetched $200 to $400 at a pet store in Illinois and $800 or more if she had been shipped to an upscale pet store in New York state, said Cori Menkin, ASPCA's senior director of legislative initiatives.
Menkin listed the many ailments Chloe suffered from in the puppy mill: The animals were covered with feces and fleas, and they had internal parasites, matted coats and damaged paws from standing 24 hours a day in urine-soaked wires cages."We've seen less enforcement by the USDA [United States Department of Agriculture] and state departments of agriculture than we'd like," Menkin said. "This bill will change many of these horrific conditions."
Article
1.19.2009
Sojos
We’re back from an extra long holiday break. Christmas was wonderful and as usual Bailey received many puppy gifts. By now my family and friends know that Bailey is on a restricted diet so buying him treat gifts gets difficult. There are very few companies that make treats that meet his restricted diet and if they do, they have to make it past me….a short ingredient list of all natural real food made in the USA. Honestly, most of Bailey’s treats are fresh fruits and vegetables I pull right out of the refrigerator so I rarely buy him treats. However, one of our new favorite treat gifts is from Sojos, Good Dog Apple Dumpling Treats.
Good Dog Apple Dumpling Treats are tiny bones, which makes them great training treats and they are easy to break in half for small dogs. Plus they smell great, just like apple pie. This line of treats is wheat and corn free and packed with all good things. They are available in other flavors and Sojos offers several different lines of treats to fit your dogs’ needs. Some are even grain free.
If you’re not familiar with Soujourner Farms, you should really check them out. The company was started in 1985 by a vet making healthy real pet food for his own dogs and expanded from there. Their recipe is Sojos + your meat + water = a healthy homemade meal for your dog. This is about as simple as feeding homemade and raw as you are going to get.
In addition to their wonderful food and treats their website is full of great information about dog health, care and feeding. One of my favorite articles is Pet Mythbusters: 5 Pet Food Myths.
Bailey gives Sojos Good dog Apple Dumpling Treats four paws and so do I.
Good Dog Apple Dumpling Treats are tiny bones, which makes them great training treats and they are easy to break in half for small dogs. Plus they smell great, just like apple pie. This line of treats is wheat and corn free and packed with all good things. They are available in other flavors and Sojos offers several different lines of treats to fit your dogs’ needs. Some are even grain free.If you’re not familiar with Soujourner Farms, you should really check them out. The company was started in 1985 by a vet making healthy real pet food for his own dogs and expanded from there. Their recipe is Sojos + your meat + water = a healthy homemade meal for your dog. This is about as simple as feeding homemade and raw as you are going to get.
In addition to their wonderful food and treats their website is full of great information about dog health, care and feeding. One of my favorite articles is Pet Mythbusters: 5 Pet Food Myths.
Bailey gives Sojos Good dog Apple Dumpling Treats four paws and so do I.
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