Many people think crate training their dog is mean and cruel, but it’s really not. I used crate training for Bailey to help housebreak him and, at the time, I hated it because I felt terrible locking him up. I didn’t know that dogs can actually view a cage as a soothing and comfortable place of their own where they can sleep and lounge undisturbed. In fact, crate training is a great way to housebreak a new dog and get him used to living in your home. A crate is also the safest place for your dog to be when you are not home to monitor them. You will always have peace of mind when you are not home knowing that your pooch can’t get into the baking chocolate you left on the counter or tear up your brand new shoes if they are in a crate. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when cage training your puppy or dog.
Size it up. Choose a crate big enough for your pooch to stand up and turn around comfortably, but not so spacious that he can easily keep his distance from any messes he may make inside it.
Ease into the intro. Place a few favorite toys inside the crate to make it more inviting. Coax your pooch inside, you may want to put a few treats inside to start them off thinking the crate is a great place, and let him sniff out this new space. Keep doing this until you find him going in the crate on his own. Once he seems comfortable, try closing the door. If he objects, let him out and reassure him. But if he doesn't seem to mind, pour on the praise. Gradually work up to leaving your pup in the crate for longer stretches of time as he grows more accustomed to it.
Stay positive. If your pooch has an accident in the crate, skip the scolding. Being confined in a small space with a stinky mess is punishment enough. Instead, take him outside and remind him of where he is supposed to go.
Trick it out. A soft crate pad would definitely make the crate more interesting and comfortable for your dog. And it’s a good idea to purchase a water bowl that will screw on to the side because you never want to leave your pup without water. Since a metal cage is really not too attractive, you can coordinate the crate to your room with different colors and fabric covers. I’ve even seen wooden furniture-like crates and custom designed crates so your pooch’s pad is as stylish as yours.
One last thing, it’s a good idea not to use being in the crate as a punishment and keep the entire crate experience positive or your dog will start to associate his crate as going to jail and no one likes that.
10.15.2009
10.11.2009
Dogs vs. Porqupine
Unfortunately the porqupine won. And from what I've read, the porqupine always wins.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.
Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
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