Obesity is the number one problem facing pets in the United States, 40% are dangerously overweight. Just like humans, overweight pets face many health problems including diabetes, heart disease, cancer, arthritis and shortened life.
There is a simple way to tell if your pet is overweight, if you can easily feel their ribs most likely they are in a healthy weight range. If not, it's time to pay attention to your dog's food intake and exercise.
As your dog ages, his calorie needs go down so you need to adjust their food levels accordingly. (Keep in mind that older dogs need more protein.) Also, dogs who get less exercise have less calorie needs than dogs who gets lots of exercise. One way to determine how much to feed your dog is to read the suggested feeding requirements on your dog's food package. However, the amounts listed by the manufacturer are generally much too high and they are not adjusted for treats. Most dogs should be fed at the lowest end of the range, some require even less, and if you supplement with treats you need to lower the amount of food you feed. Speaking of treats, NO TABLE SCRAPS. This is where dogs get into trouble. If you want to give them some of the food you are eating, consider a bite of unseasoned meat, carrot, zucchini, brussels sprouts, etc....(see the ASPCA list of People Foods to Avoid Feeding Your Pets.) These types of treats are the healthiest and lowest calorie treats you can give your dog. But consider every bite you feed your dog and adjust the amount of food accordingly.
As far as prescription drugs to help your pooch trim down, are you kidding me? That is the most ridiculous thing I have every heard. Monitor their diet, take them for long walks and in a very short amount of time you will see results.
11.30.2009
10.15.2009
Crate Training
Many people think crate training their dog is mean and cruel, but it’s really not. I used crate training for Bailey to help housebreak him and, at the time, I hated it because I felt terrible locking him up. I didn’t know that dogs can actually view a cage as a soothing and comfortable place of their own where they can sleep and lounge undisturbed. In fact, crate training is a great way to housebreak a new dog and get him used to living in your home. A crate is also the safest place for your dog to be when you are not home to monitor them. You will always have peace of mind when you are not home knowing that your pooch can’t get into the baking chocolate you left on the counter or tear up your brand new shoes if they are in a crate. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when cage training your puppy or dog.
Size it up. Choose a crate big enough for your pooch to stand up and turn around comfortably, but not so spacious that he can easily keep his distance from any messes he may make inside it.
Ease into the intro. Place a few favorite toys inside the crate to make it more inviting. Coax your pooch inside, you may want to put a few treats inside to start them off thinking the crate is a great place, and let him sniff out this new space. Keep doing this until you find him going in the crate on his own. Once he seems comfortable, try closing the door. If he objects, let him out and reassure him. But if he doesn't seem to mind, pour on the praise. Gradually work up to leaving your pup in the crate for longer stretches of time as he grows more accustomed to it.
Stay positive. If your pooch has an accident in the crate, skip the scolding. Being confined in a small space with a stinky mess is punishment enough. Instead, take him outside and remind him of where he is supposed to go.
Trick it out. A soft crate pad would definitely make the crate more interesting and comfortable for your dog. And it’s a good idea to purchase a water bowl that will screw on to the side because you never want to leave your pup without water. Since a metal cage is really not too attractive, you can coordinate the crate to your room with different colors and fabric covers. I’ve even seen wooden furniture-like crates and custom designed crates so your pooch’s pad is as stylish as yours.
One last thing, it’s a good idea not to use being in the crate as a punishment and keep the entire crate experience positive or your dog will start to associate his crate as going to jail and no one likes that.
Size it up. Choose a crate big enough for your pooch to stand up and turn around comfortably, but not so spacious that he can easily keep his distance from any messes he may make inside it.
Ease into the intro. Place a few favorite toys inside the crate to make it more inviting. Coax your pooch inside, you may want to put a few treats inside to start them off thinking the crate is a great place, and let him sniff out this new space. Keep doing this until you find him going in the crate on his own. Once he seems comfortable, try closing the door. If he objects, let him out and reassure him. But if he doesn't seem to mind, pour on the praise. Gradually work up to leaving your pup in the crate for longer stretches of time as he grows more accustomed to it.
Stay positive. If your pooch has an accident in the crate, skip the scolding. Being confined in a small space with a stinky mess is punishment enough. Instead, take him outside and remind him of where he is supposed to go.
Trick it out. A soft crate pad would definitely make the crate more interesting and comfortable for your dog. And it’s a good idea to purchase a water bowl that will screw on to the side because you never want to leave your pup without water. Since a metal cage is really not too attractive, you can coordinate the crate to your room with different colors and fabric covers. I’ve even seen wooden furniture-like crates and custom designed crates so your pooch’s pad is as stylish as yours.
One last thing, it’s a good idea not to use being in the crate as a punishment and keep the entire crate experience positive or your dog will start to associate his crate as going to jail and no one likes that.
10.11.2009
Dogs vs. Porqupine
Unfortunately the porqupine won. And from what I've read, the porqupine always wins.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.
Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
I just could not believe this picture, I thought it was a joke, but it is the real thing. This happened today while hiking in the Colorado mountains.Of course I had to do a little digging to see if the dog vs. porquipine situation is common and sure enough, it seems to be. Here is what you need to know if your dog decides to tangle with a porqupine:
Porcupines are common in many U.S. states and in all parts of Canada. They will tease a dog into attacking them, and when the unlucky pet takes the bait he will find his mouth and body full of porcupine quills. Quills are attached to the porcupine's skin, much like a hair but not deeply rooted, and has small reverse barbs near the sharp tip of the shaft. When a quill penetrates the skin of the victim, the muscle movements draw it deeper, and the angle at which the barbs are set prevent it from backing out of the flesh. Hunters are commonly faced with the dilemma of how to remove porcupine quills from dog tissue.
When attacked, a porcupine will often cause brutally painful and acute injuries. An aggressive dog may pick a porcupine up in its mouth and shake it from side to side. As the porcupine flops against each side of the dog, it will release quills into the dogs skin again and again, each time it hits the dog's sides. The angry porcupine will also thrash its quill-filled tail wildly, slapping the dog's body and legs. The unfortunate dog magnifies his own agony by rolling on the ground and pawing the quills, only driving them further into the flesh.
Many people still subscribe to the theory that porcupines shoot their quills. The fact is that porcupines do NOT shoot quills. The quills are attached loosely to the skin, and when they become embedded in the flesh of the victim, they are pulled loose from the porcupine's skin. It is also important to note that a porcupine will not attack a dog, but will only defend himself.
If a dog were to tangle with a porcupine in the immediate proximity of a veterinary clinic, then the quill removal would be a simple process. The vet would simply administer an anesthetic and quickly pull the quills surgically. Unfortunately such convenience is rarely if ever the case. Most veterinarians, when in the woods without surgical equipment, will simply pull the quills with a pair of electrician's pliers.
No dog owner should venture with his pet into the woods where porcupines are known to live without also carrying a quality pair of pliers. There is simply no time to get the dog from the woods to a clinic when he has been quilled. Chain the dog firmly and get immediately to work with the pliers. This is no time to be timid. Blood or no blood, the quills must be pulled. Get ahold of them with the pliers, and get them out of the flesh before they become more deeply embedded.
If the dog becomes quilled in the woods, stand him up while you pull quills first from the side you are going to lay him on. Next, pull the quills from his mouth. Grab some dirt from the ground, cover your free hand with it, and use it to grasp and hold the dog's tongue so it won't slip. Pull the quills from his tongue. If there are quills in the lips and they have worked their way through far enough to feel the tips on the other side, go ahead and pull them out tip first through the lips. This will be less painful for the dog. After removing the quills from the dogs mouth, tie his muzzle closed to prevent him from biting at the remaining quills. Next remove the quills from around the eyes. Then begin removing the quills from his body, getting the ones from behind his shoulders first to prevent them from working deeper into the flesh and potentially into vital organs. Some quills will likely break off. Leave them and continue working on the rest.
Quills will continue to work their way through the body if left in the flesh. The ones in the front legs and shoulder will normally move upward, and by the next day some can be felt beginning to emerge through the skin above the shoulder blades. Allowing the quills move to the a point where you can feel the tip through the skin, and then pulling it the rest of the way through is much more advisable then trying to cut them out. If the tip doesn't poke through the skin, make a small nick and extract it. Continue to do this daily until they are all out. The only truly effective method of locating quills is feeling for them.
I am dedicating this blog to Osa (the beautiful big black dog pictured on the left) and her buddies. I hope you all feel better soon! October 12, 2009 Update: all dogs are recovering and doing well.
9.28.2009
Best Dog Beds EVER!
You have to check out Bowser's, they are simply the best dog beds I have found.
Bailey currently owns three of the donut beds, (there may be a fourth in his near future), and just adores them. Plus, they are stylish and easy to clean. If you knew me at all, you would know that these two points are key to my mental well being.
Bowser's has many styles and sizes to accomodate all breeds, super tiny to giant, and keeps right on trend with new fabrics and styles.
Since I found Bowser's products about, eight years ago, they have expanded their product line, in addition to the several styles of dogs beds, the now have furniture, collars, leashes, feeders, steps, travel accessories, mats, cushions and for the super coordinated....fabric by the yard.
If you go with a microvelvet fabric you will not be disappointed!
Note, you are going to spend more on a Bowser's Bed then you would at the mass merchants but a Bowser's Bed will last a lot longer and provide much more comfort and support for your dog. All three of Bailey's beds still look brand new.
Bailey currently owns three of the donut beds, (there may be a fourth in his near future), and just adores them. Plus, they are stylish and easy to clean. If you knew me at all, you would know that these two points are key to my mental well being.Bowser's has many styles and sizes to accomodate all breeds, super tiny to giant, and keeps right on trend with new fabrics and styles.Since I found Bowser's products about, eight years ago, they have expanded their product line, in addition to the several styles of dogs beds, the now have furniture, collars, leashes, feeders, steps, travel accessories, mats, cushions and for the super coordinated....fabric by the yard. If you go with a microvelvet fabric you will not be disappointed!Note, you are going to spend more on a Bowser's Bed then you would at the mass merchants but a Bowser's Bed will last a lot longer and provide much more comfort and support for your dog. All three of Bailey's beds still look brand new.
8.15.2009
Is Your Vet Still Overvaccinating Your Dog?
I came across this enlightening article and am reprinting it with permission from the author, Dr. Dan Beatty. Please read this article, research vaccinations and have an informed discussion with your Vet.
Is your dog being overvaccinated and is your vet following the new guidelines? How many of you are still getting annual “shots” for your dog? Has your vet told you that there is a “new” protocol for vaccinating your dog? I say “new” loosely because the guidelines have been around for over 5 years now! That is beside the point, lets just go with the new guidelines given out by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) last year in 2006.
First, a bit of information about the vaccination of your dog. The most common other vaccination given to your dog besides rabies is a 5 or a 6 in one shot. Meaning there are 5 or 6 different types of diseases your dog is being vaccinated for in one shot. The common acronym for this vaccine is DHLPP and sometimes added in there is a C. The letters each stand for a different disease – D=Distemper, H=Hepatitis (also known as Adenovirus), L=Leptospirosis, P=Parvo, P=Parainfluenza, and C=Corona.
For the new guidelines lets take the three core vaccines, the three that your dog should be vaccinated for Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis (Adenovirus). After your dog has been initially vaccinated for these three core diseases usually as a puppy and then a year later with a booster, your dog has prolonged immunity against those diseases. What do I mean by prolonged immunity, well the research shows, your dog is immune for 6 to 9 years! That’s correct! The research done by reputable immunologists, such as Dr. Ronald Schultz, shows that after the initial puppy vaccination and a one year booster many dogs are protected for the majority of their life. WIth this new research AAHA developed some new guidelines. Their suggestion or guidelines, after puppy vaccination and the yearly booster is that the three core vaccines, only need to be boostered every three years. So according to the AAHA guidelines, instead of annual revaccination, your dog really only needs to be revaccinated every three years.
In fact, did you know, annual vaccination of your dog can cause severe diseases. Overvaccination has been linked to cancer, allergies, and other auto-immune diseases such as Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia. More research needs to be done but many of the recent studies show these links exist. In fact, in cats, overvaccination has been proven to cause sarcomas, a very severe cancer.
So now the question becomes, if the vaccines have been shown to produce immunity that lasts quite a bit longer than what was originally thought and annual vaccination might be the cause of certain allergies and other immune system diseases including cancer, then why has my vet not told me about this? Unfortunately, the answer is money, if not money then it is pure ignorance on your vet’s part. Yes ignorance, as in not current in their education or just an unwillingness to change because the old way is the way things have always been done. Money is the other answer and no it is not because veterinarians are greedy, but rather in many veterinary offices, 33% of the annual income comes from vaccinations. This is a large percentage of income that with the new guidelines will be cut. Veterinarians are not prepared for that kind of an income cut. Many could go out of business. Many clinics do not have the management skills or their other services are not priced correctly to compensate for that kind of an income loss. So changing to the new vaccination guidelines although would benefit your animals health can be a tough business decision for the owner of the veterinary clinic. Just remember though you have a responsibility as a pet owner for the health and well being of your pet and less vaccinations IS better for your pet, regardless of the business problems that some clinics may have going to the new guidelines.
So if your veterinarian is still requesting annual vaccinations, ask why. Be informed, make the right decisions, choose to protect the health of your dog by learning what your veterinarian is giving to your dog and why – specifically why, not just because he is the vet and it is to better the health of your dog. Ask questions, be dangerous!
About the Author
Be dangerous to your veterinarian, be informed, make intelligent decisions based on knowledge from credible sources. You can find more information about the topic of dog health care at Dr. Dan's website - e-Vet Clinic and his blog Dog Health Care.
Is your dog being overvaccinated and is your vet following the new guidelines? How many of you are still getting annual “shots” for your dog? Has your vet told you that there is a “new” protocol for vaccinating your dog? I say “new” loosely because the guidelines have been around for over 5 years now! That is beside the point, lets just go with the new guidelines given out by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) last year in 2006.
First, a bit of information about the vaccination of your dog. The most common other vaccination given to your dog besides rabies is a 5 or a 6 in one shot. Meaning there are 5 or 6 different types of diseases your dog is being vaccinated for in one shot. The common acronym for this vaccine is DHLPP and sometimes added in there is a C. The letters each stand for a different disease – D=Distemper, H=Hepatitis (also known as Adenovirus), L=Leptospirosis, P=Parvo, P=Parainfluenza, and C=Corona.
For the new guidelines lets take the three core vaccines, the three that your dog should be vaccinated for Distemper, Parvo and Hepatitis (Adenovirus). After your dog has been initially vaccinated for these three core diseases usually as a puppy and then a year later with a booster, your dog has prolonged immunity against those diseases. What do I mean by prolonged immunity, well the research shows, your dog is immune for 6 to 9 years! That’s correct! The research done by reputable immunologists, such as Dr. Ronald Schultz, shows that after the initial puppy vaccination and a one year booster many dogs are protected for the majority of their life. WIth this new research AAHA developed some new guidelines. Their suggestion or guidelines, after puppy vaccination and the yearly booster is that the three core vaccines, only need to be boostered every three years. So according to the AAHA guidelines, instead of annual revaccination, your dog really only needs to be revaccinated every three years.
In fact, did you know, annual vaccination of your dog can cause severe diseases. Overvaccination has been linked to cancer, allergies, and other auto-immune diseases such as Autoimmune Hemolytic Anemia. More research needs to be done but many of the recent studies show these links exist. In fact, in cats, overvaccination has been proven to cause sarcomas, a very severe cancer.
So now the question becomes, if the vaccines have been shown to produce immunity that lasts quite a bit longer than what was originally thought and annual vaccination might be the cause of certain allergies and other immune system diseases including cancer, then why has my vet not told me about this? Unfortunately, the answer is money, if not money then it is pure ignorance on your vet’s part. Yes ignorance, as in not current in their education or just an unwillingness to change because the old way is the way things have always been done. Money is the other answer and no it is not because veterinarians are greedy, but rather in many veterinary offices, 33% of the annual income comes from vaccinations. This is a large percentage of income that with the new guidelines will be cut. Veterinarians are not prepared for that kind of an income cut. Many could go out of business. Many clinics do not have the management skills or their other services are not priced correctly to compensate for that kind of an income loss. So changing to the new vaccination guidelines although would benefit your animals health can be a tough business decision for the owner of the veterinary clinic. Just remember though you have a responsibility as a pet owner for the health and well being of your pet and less vaccinations IS better for your pet, regardless of the business problems that some clinics may have going to the new guidelines.
So if your veterinarian is still requesting annual vaccinations, ask why. Be informed, make the right decisions, choose to protect the health of your dog by learning what your veterinarian is giving to your dog and why – specifically why, not just because he is the vet and it is to better the health of your dog. Ask questions, be dangerous!
About the Author
Be dangerous to your veterinarian, be informed, make intelligent decisions based on knowledge from credible sources. You can find more information about the topic of dog health care at Dr. Dan's website - e-Vet Clinic and his blog Dog Health Care.
8.14.2009
Eagles Hire ConVick
I'm raging mad that the Philadelphia Eagles hired Michael Vick right out of prison.
Honestly, the NFL shouldn't have even considered hiring Vick until he had completed his parol requirements and been an animal advocate against dog fighting and animal abuse for a considerable amount of time, beyond what was required by his plea agreement. Then perhaps a second chance would have been easier to swallow. Right now the wounds are just too fresh and the remorse seems too contrived.
What is very disturbing is the message it sends to the kids that idolize him. They need to see that dogfighters never succeed, they are criminals, and there’s no good outcome if you get involved. However, in my eyes, Vick's outcome is good so at best it's a clouded message that he is advocating against dog fighting while at the same time given the opportunity to jump back into his profession, reap the ridiculously large financial rewards of the NFL and regain his superstar status.
The NFL really needs a new policy that prevents violent convicted felons from playing within the NFL where they are viewed as role models, not only for children but the entire population.
I believe in second chances and you can't fault Michael Vick for trying to get back to work, for me it's just too soon.
Thank goodness he's not a Bear!
8/15/09 Update: Found a great article by Doyle Albee related to my post.
Honestly, the NFL shouldn't have even considered hiring Vick until he had completed his parol requirements and been an animal advocate against dog fighting and animal abuse for a considerable amount of time, beyond what was required by his plea agreement. Then perhaps a second chance would have been easier to swallow. Right now the wounds are just too fresh and the remorse seems too contrived.
What is very disturbing is the message it sends to the kids that idolize him. They need to see that dogfighters never succeed, they are criminals, and there’s no good outcome if you get involved. However, in my eyes, Vick's outcome is good so at best it's a clouded message that he is advocating against dog fighting while at the same time given the opportunity to jump back into his profession, reap the ridiculously large financial rewards of the NFL and regain his superstar status.
The NFL really needs a new policy that prevents violent convicted felons from playing within the NFL where they are viewed as role models, not only for children but the entire population.
I believe in second chances and you can't fault Michael Vick for trying to get back to work, for me it's just too soon.
Thank goodness he's not a Bear!
8/15/09 Update: Found a great article by Doyle Albee related to my post.
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